Kanchanaburi and the Death Railway

I spent last weekend in Kanchanaburi, a little town 3 hours west of Bangkok and well known for the infamous Death Railroad. Remember the old movie, Bridge Over The River Kwai? Although the movie is mostly fiction (a British officer would never have endorsed or helped the building and engineering of the railroad, and in fact the POWs did everything in their power to sabotage the railroad, like plant termites in the wood, etc.), the building of the Death Railway is a sad fact.

In 1942, after the successful conquest of Singapore (which was invaded on bicycles, no less!), Japan set their sights on Burma. For this purpose they used Allied POWs (largely from Singapore) and 'hired' workers from Malaysia, Burma, Indonesia, and other nearby countries. The conditions for both the POWs and these 'hired' worker were pretty horrendous. Actually the area around the Kwai Bridge was one of the better sights because of fresh water, but many of the camps were overcrowded, without proper water, food, or hygiene, and death tolls were very high. POWs were often guarded by Korean soldiers who were treated poorly by their Japanese superiors, and likewise handed that cruelty down to the workers. The construction (258 miles through mountains) was originally estimated to take several years, but because of deadlines was completed in a little over a year. This monumental task was accomplished by backbreaking work and long hours by undernourished and sick men.

After the war the Allies moved all the POW graves to a few central graveyards. There is a lot of information about the POWs due to record keeping both of the Japanese and the POWs themselves. Not so with the Asian workers. Estimates are that 90,000 Asian workers died during the construction, but there aren't identifiable graves for these men, and so they are spread out across the jungles of Thailand and Burma.

Even in the midst of reading heart wrenching stories of depravity and cruelty, there were also stories of the greatest hope, courage and compassion imaginable, not only amongst the POWs but from the Thai villagers nearby, Thai businessmen from Bangkok who went to great personal risk to alleviate the suffering of workers, and Japanese officers who tried, in little ways, to aide the men.

The River Kwai

The Bridge (Allied forces destroyed the middle section in 1944, but this bit is original)

On our way to Kanchanaburi we spent the day in Bangkok and hung out at this awesome temple with a great view of the river and city.